Surf's Up! Ho Daddy!

We woke up late this morning and almost skipped the beach. That would have been the biggest mistake since the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor. I spent the week whining and complaining about how hot it was. It’s the middle of October and the temperature was 85 degrees last night at 9pm, but the weather was 100% perfect today. We got to the beach this morning at about ten, found it all but deserted, and there was a perfect tidal pool for the baby girl. I have no idea how waves work, but they were huge today. I don’t know if there’s a hurricane in the Atlantic or the moon is at its closest point to the Earth and I don’t really care. The surf was as rough as it’s been all summer – even though were almost a month into fall. MJ was brilliant enough to bring both Boogie Boards so I grabbed one and headed out. I don’t normally play on the Boogie Boards a bunch because the waves are usually small and there’s a very small chance of me dying. If I’m not in fear for my life then what’s the point? Today is what I imagine it’s like off the coast of Southern California. The waves were so big it was difficult to get out past the breakers to catch the big juicy ones. MJ has just as much fun on the small ones, but she’s not as much of an adrenaline junky as I am. A big bonus to the day was that we were joined by the Fleming Island Crew, who may be on their way to becoming the Beach Crew. The last six weeks we’ve been expecting something different at the beach, some kind of signal that the summer is over and the autumn has begun, but it hasn’t happened. I really, really want fall to start. We’re way past Indian Summer. We’re into Sitting Bull at the top of Little Bighorn Summer, but days like today make sweating on my fifty foot walk from my car to my office on Halloween worth it.